Reloading the .32 ACP

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My nephew, Ross, is visiting from Australia with his family for Christmas. Although he goes hunting with his father when he is here (he doesn't have access to guns in Oz) he always enjoys a range day with my guns. His favourite is my Astra Constable .32 PPK lookalike.

This pistol was almost 100% reliable with Federal ammunition, but .32 auto ammo is hard to get here, and Federal .32 auto has been impossible to obtain for several years. I have tried Winchester Silvertip and S&B FMJ ammo. Both resulted in repeated failures to fire in the Astra.

As this pistol is used for shooting a 48 round Classic Pistol match (in modern replica category) these misfires are annoying, to say the least. Not only do I loose time but match rules only allow 6 rounds to be loaded per 6 shot string, so I also I lose shots on target when a primer fails to fire.

Some time ago I bought dies, cases and bullets (71 gn JRN) to reload the .32 Auto calibre, but I never found time to actually reload any ammo.

Yesterday I took Ross to the range, and while getting ready I found a half used box of the S&B ammo in my cupboard, so I put it along with the Astra into my range bag. Sure enough, when the time came to shoot the little pistol it misfired several times. While all rounds eventually discharged, some enquired as many as 5 strikes of the hammer to do so.

On getting home I ran 7 cases through the sizing/depriming die (it is set up on a seperate turret for my Lee turret press) and repimed them using Federal SPP's. All 7 discharged first pull of the trigger when run through the pistol (yes, empty cases loaded into the chamber from the mag and the primer detonations were no loader than a nail gun in my shed) so after resizing and priming all the fired cases I had on hand (115) I set up the powder/seating/crimping turret to reload them.

Checking the powder company data I found I had three powders on hand suitable for reloading the .32. W231 (2.1-2.3 gn), Tightgroup (2 - 2.2 gn) and Mulwex AP50N. Although ADI have no loading data for the AP50N powder in .32 auto their burn rate chart puts it equivalent to W231 and HP38. I had already calculated that around 2 gn's of powder would be a starting load by comparing the AP30 and AP70 data.

I decided on 2.1 gn's W231 as it burns at a lower pressure than Tightgroup or AP50N. I set up a Lee auto drum powder measure and selected the smallest pre-set drum I had on hand. It is a rifle drum with the supplied filler cap inserted which makes it a flat bottomed measure compared to the normal cone shaped one. When I tried to set the measure I had a big issue.

The drum stuck in the housing to the point that the plastic riser that turns the drum bent!

I spent an hour pulling the drum apart and putting it back together, and while I got the measure to work (I had to manually turn the drum as I pulled down on the press handle) and was able to set the drum to drop 2.1 gn's, there was some spillage out of the drum as the powder was dropping. That was when I recalled my Lee Perfect Powder measure which was on a nearby shelf and is fitted with an adaptor to allow it to be used in the top of Lee powder dies.

Removing the auto drum measure I installed the powder funnel fitting and inserted the Perfect powder measure. I very quickly was able to set the powder measure to the required 2.1 gn's and started to reload.

As the case is so small and the powder weight so low I decided to remove and check every case after the powder drop and to weigh every 5th charge. It is certainly a lot slower than my usual loading technique on either my progressive or turret presses but safety first.

Unfortunately my loading area does not have any lights set up and as light started to fade I stopped after only loading 20 cases. I'll finish the rest in the morning where I can see into the cases properly.

The .32 auto is a small case and is easily damaged by not going into the dies properly (or repeated insertions in the powder die). In this regard it is very much like the .38 S&W cases which I also load on the turret press as it allows me to gently feed each case up into the dies. (The .38 S&W I load with 2.4 gn's of AP50N (it was this powder drum I was using in the auto drum measure) and in future I can see my having to use the Perfect Powder measure to reload this calibre as well as my rifle ones).

It is not a calibre that is often reloaded, especially in my country. But it is a fun calibre to shoot :D
 
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I reload for my modest collection of .32 automatics as the off-the-shelf price for .32 auto is ridiculous. As you note it is a small case and one must be careful and have good light to ensure you are hitting every case correctly. I have, however, NOT had the problem you describe with the S&B ammo, though I have never fired it thru an Astra. I do have a couple of Llama .32 autos that are roughly similar.
 
I recently loaded a few 71gr Hornady fmj for my PPK.Fun to shoot but one must be very careful while handling those lilliputian cases!Normally,reloading is a relaxing hobby for me but not so with the .32 acp.But I shoot so few rds in a year that the fun of shooting it exceeds the hassle of loading for it.I might just keep the thing going for a while yet!
 
When I loaded 500 rounds of .32 acp for my best friends ppk (WW2 bring back of his dad's complete with capture papers!) on my 550 Dillon I learned that I had to slow myself down and make sure that the casings were going perfectly straight into the dies, much like when I reload my 44-40's

Other than that we had no problems.

Randy
 
reloading 32 acp

Here's a quick primer on reloading the 32 acp, particularly for Colt's M1903.

This cartridge as originally designed headspaces on the RIM, not on the case mouth, and as such cast 32-20 bullets work very well with a roll crimp.

AND, american mfg. 32 acp is often too weak to properly work in semi-autos. European (think S&B or maybe Fiocchi) 32 acp (30 or 7.62 browning in their parlance) is much hotter and works just fine.

Even jacketed 32-20 works well if the bullet has a cannelure.
 
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I should think that reloading the .32 is difficult for another reason besides the small powder charge: the difficulty of manually handling the little cases and bullets. I prefer the .45 to the 9mm for handloading because it's easier to handle the fat cases and bullets.
 
Twenty years ago when I got my P32, I bought 500 cases from Starline and ran them through my Loadmaster. I still have 400 or so as I check function by shooting the magazine empty about once a year. It's my always-in-my-pocket gun.
 
.32ACP

Well I use to, and had no problems. Not familiar with your pistol but were it me, I would start with a GOOD scrubbing of the firing pin, and housing, check the spring as well. Had a shooting buddy with that problem with a .45ACP., I took it apart to find the spring was broken. :rolleyes: Those housing can get fairly dirty, depending on make of gun and powder. W231 was and would be my choice. :) I just finished a 8 pound keg of W231 as I use it for most everything except hunting ammo. As luck would have it, I had another 8# keg tucked away. Should last me awhile. Good luck!! :)
 
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Well I use to, and had no problems. Not familiar with your pistol but were it me, I would start with a GOOD scrubbing of the firing pin, and housing, check the spring as well. Had a shooting buddy with that problem with a .45ACP., I took it apart to find the spring was broken. :rolleyes: Those housing can get fairly dirty, depending on make of gun and powder. W231 was and would be my choice. :) I just finished a 8 pound keg of W231 as I use it for most everything except hunting ammo. As luck would have it, I had another 8# keg tucked away. Should last me awhile. Good luck!! :)

I have to admit that while I have owned this pistol for over 20 years, for most of that time it sat registered on my collectors license as it has a barrel under 4" in length. That meant I could not even load it with ammo let alone shoot it.

A few years ago the rules were relaxed for a little while and I had it transferred to ,my pistol club license. Since then I have only fired off about 300 rounds, all factory. It probably does need a good scrub inside the breechblock. I will have to try to figure out how to access it.

(I have only use heart how to remove the firing pin, spring and ejector from my 1911'a and CZ 75 copy :D:D:D:D)
 
I've loaded .32 ACP / 7.65 Browning for several years,, feeding both Walther PP series pistols and FEG AP7S and APK7S pistols.

There are some oddities with .32 ACP that are worth discussing.

European 7.65 Browning / .32 ACP ammo generally uses a .308" diameter bullet to fit the .307" to .309" bores common in Walther, Mauser and FN 7.65 Browning pistols. European 7.65 Browning brass also has a slightly different case wall taper with a thicker case wall at the case mouth.

American 7.65 Browning / .32 ACP ammo tends to use .310" - .311" diameter bullets along with a case taper that has a thinner case wall thickness at the case mouth. That larger diameter tends to work better with the .310" to .312" bores found in Beretta, Colt and CZ .32 ACP pistols.

Most cast bullets sold for .32 ACP run .311" -.312" diameter and this generally works well in the .311" to .316" diameter throats found in most .32 ACP pistols. When loading cast bullets for the .32 ACP you want to use a soft lead bullet that fits the throat well, to ensure rapid obturation. A .312" bullet will size itself down to a .307" or .308" bore just fine, but a .308" bullet in a .312" throat will cause excessive leading, as will a hard cast bullet that won't obturate at all.

You can however encounter problems with a .311" or .312" bullet in a thicker walled European case when you're loading for a .32 ACP pistol with tight chamber and throat. You may find the round won't go into battery. In that case, you may want to stick with thinner walled US brass, or you may need to taper crimp the round, or post size the round to bring it back within specifications along it's entire length.

The .32 ACP is a small case with small powder charges, so you need a very small drum diameter or extra small powder slide. With the Dillion powder measure I've found the extra small slide works great. But with any measure be sure to be consistent in the operation of the measure and check the weight carefully and regularly.

---

For self defense purposes the .32 ACP is under the .380 ACP standard usually considered to be a minimum in the US, but most pistols designed for both .32 ACP and .380 ACP shoot so much better with .32 ACP due to lower recoil, plus you'll get another round in the magazine compared to .380 ACP.

Given the historically poor hollow point performance with the .32 ACP, many shooters recommend FMJ, but I've found that 60 gr XTPs will give 12" penetration and reliable expansion if the velocity is around 1050-1100 fps. .32 ACP pistol velocities vary a lot based on bore and throat diameter, but that velocity is usually achievable in a 3.9" PP length barrel.

I don't recommend using bullets heavier than about 75 grains, especially in an alloy frame .32 ACP pistol, as heavier bullets tend to batter the frame and generally increase wear on the pistol.
 
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I have been loading a 71gr plated bullet over 2.3gr W231 with a WSP primer for my CZ27 and they fire fine.
 
I have to admit that while I have owned this pistol for over 20 years, for most of that time it sat registered on my collectors license as it has a barrel under 4" in length. That meant I could not even load it with ammo let alone shoot it.

A few years ago the rules were relaxed for a little while and I had it transferred to ,my pistol club license. Since then I have only fired off about 300 rounds, all factory. It probably does need a good scrub inside the breechblock. I will have to try to figure out how to access it.

(I have only use heart how to remove the firing pin, spring and ejector from my 1911'a and CZ 75 copy :D:D:D:D)

A thorough cleaning is always the first step for a gun that is not functioning properly.
 

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